Description
Don’t spend money rebuilding your original hubs! Replace them with new, stronger hubs and put an end to worries of a dangerous failure. Failure of the weak, original rear hub can cause a wheel to suddenly part company with the car with devastating results.
Take a look at the comparison photos of the rotating parts of the original hub vs. the Good Parts hub. The original hub transmits all the side force through a small, 1.062″ diameter axle shaft that can fatigue and break. Good Parts hubs use a much stronger design where the side force is transferred directly from the wheel flange to the large bearing where the minimum load bearing diameter is 1.91″. The inner bearing races are included since they contribute to the effective load bearing diameter when the big nut is torqued. In the photo showing the parts disassembled, the shinier area of the original tapered spindle marked “A” was still securely stuck in the wheel flange which made it very hard to press apart. The area marked “B” is darker because the surface has tiny wear marks from rubbing against the inside of the taper in the wheel flange as the spindle was flexing. Eventually the spindle may break off leaving the wheel free to leave the car. The shiny area marked “C” shows where the inner bearing was wearing on the spindle allowing a little wheel wobble that could not be eliminated with adjustment of the bearing preload. The original hub transmits driving force through a 1/4″ square key whereas the Good Parts hub uses a spline.
Benefits:
Uses a modern sealed double tapered roller bearing with factory set pre-load
Reduced weight and hub flex improves handling
Simple bolt-in with no modifications to the trailing arm
High tensile strength wheel studs, made in the USA
Available Wheel Stud Lengths:
7/8″ = Wire wheels
1-3/16″ = Factory steel wheels and most aftermarket alloy wheels
1-3/8″ = Alloy wheels with thicker center flange (may require measuring to ensure proper lug nut thread depth)
1-9/16″ or 1-3/4″ = Wheels + wheel spacers
2-1/4″ (+1/4″ unthreaded nose) = Full length for custom cutting or open ended lug nuts
2″ (+1/4″ unthreaded nose) ½-20 ARP = Larger 1/2-20 studs for increased strength, made by ARP
Note: Wheel studs are standard 7/16-20 thread unless specified. Stud length is measured from face of hub flange without the brake drum installed.
Rich (verified owner) –
Just received a pair of these for my 1973 tr6. It was time to replace mine and the quality of these is great. Can’t imagine using rebuilt or new oem hubs when you can get these. Order was processed and delivered timely.
Thanks
Rich
George Snow –
I had to rebuild or get new hubs since the passenger side bearings were starting to make noise. I purchased the greasable U joints at the same time, but you would need to pull the axle or drill an access hole in the trailing arm to grease them since a 90 degree fitting won’t fit through the flange.
The quality and quietness of the new hubs are great and wouldn’t hesitate to put them on any Triumph! Well worth the money!